Peru Rail

To get to Machu Picchu from Cuzco right now, you need to take a bus to Ollantytambo then you take a train to Aguas Calientes.  Then you buy a bus ticket at the bottom of the hill and take a bus up to Machu Picchu.  You used to be able to take a train all the way from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes, but a storm washed out the tracks a few years ago.






The train is really nice.  It is a fun trip and they feed you!









The scenery is beautiful.  It happens to look a lot like Montana, except with orchids and palm plants everywhere.  The only bummer was seeing how much trash is thrown into the Urubamba.  The Urubamba is that large, fast flowing, brown river you see in all the photos.  It is brown because of the amount of sediment it travels every day.  Lots and lots of mud.






Although the brown is a little unappetizing, it does look like a magnificent river to white water raft.

Map Cafe

After our coca adventure we did a little more shopping and then headed back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.  I bought these:




This little owl is a gourd used for drinking yerba mate.  Yerba mate is traditionally enjoyed with friends.  You share the gourd, straw and tea but not the water.  The person who starts the gourd drinks the first couple batches to ensure that the tea is smooth and has formed a good seal around the straw preventing tea leaves from getting in the straw(bombilla).  Then it's puff, puff, pass.  Ha ha, just kidding.  Argentinian Gauchos are famous for their yerba mate drinking.  Also, while we were in Uruguay we saw tons of people walking around town with their gourds. 

We had an early dinner at a place called Map Cafe near our hotel.  The food was amazing and the atmosphere was perfect.  It is a beautiful restaurant in the Museum of PreColombian art.  It is a large glass box in the courtyard inside the museum. 





Then it was off to bed.  We had to get up early to make it to the bus to Machu Picchu!

Can you believe this was all only day 1?

Goodnight.

Cocaine!!!!

Is a drug and it is bad.

Now that we've gotten that straightened out.

Cocaine!!!!!!

We found the Coca museum.  I learned in Peru that sometimes when you ask someone (the concierge) if they know about a museum and they say no and then they tell you that it is probably closed anyway because it is Sunday, you should not listen to them.  We finally found it and it was Libre because it was Sunday...FREE.


The museum had some very interesting exhibits.  I didn't find out who sponsors the museum.  I wish I had.  You may wonder why have a Coca museum at all.  Basically, the story is this. Andean peoples in Peru, Bolivia, Colombia, Chile, Western Argentina and Ecuador have used the coca plant for ages.  To them, coca has great spiritual and cultural significance.


The leaves of the coca plant have been chewed by the Adean cultures for thousands of years.  The plant itself was considered sacred and many human sacrifices had their mouths stuffed with leaves before they died.  The museum had a very well preserved human sacrifice that was found with coca.  I though it tasteless to take a picture of it, since it was a human life at one point.  Obviously the picture below is not him.


Coca was also used medicinally.  It is a stimulant and as such will abate hunger and thirst.  The tea is used to help overcome altitude sickness.  If chewed it will cause numbness in the mouth and was used as an anesthetic.  It is also said to help digestion.


This is the goddess Koka.  According to lore, she appeared in the early days of the Inca Empire.  She had green skin and hair and almond colored eyes.  She was beautiful and all the men who knew her in the biblical sense(which apparently was a lot) were left sick with love for her.  She loved 'em and left 'em.  Some men killed themselves over their love pains.  This was something that the society was not going to be cool with.  The law enforcement went looking for her, but they too fell in love.

The Inca (which remember, we learned is the name for the ruling class of the Quechua people?) had the priests bring her to his court.  He too started to get a little woo hoo for her, but stood strong against her charms.  He had her killed and had her body parts buried in all different parts of the empire.  However, he still had a deep pining for her.

Shortly after her body parts were buried, a small plant grew.  It has leaves the shape of her eyes and was the color of her skin.  The priests brought the leaves to the Inca who chewed them and found his great desire for the goddess disappear.  He had them sent around the empire so that the other men could escape their pains too.


There is currently a bit of a fight happening internationally over the coca plant.  Colombia, with lots of American dollars fueling the project, is spraying coca crops with herbicides and pesticides.  It is a war against drugs thing.

In 1961 the UN held a convention where they decided that coca chewing needed to be done away with and that plants should be destroyed when grown "illegally".  They also declared it an illegal narcotic listing it with drugs like cocaine, opium, morphine and heroin.  In 1988 Peru and Bolivia tried to get the law amended stating the law “should take due account of traditional licit use, where there is historic evidence of such use.”  They were denied.  Bolivia continues to speak up about it.  Their current president is a former coca farmer.  He argues that farmers are not drug dealers and that denying farmers their livelihood is not right.  He is calling for their ancestral right to chew coca.

An important note to keep in mind, Coca farmers don't benefit that much from the drug trade.  They make very little for their effort.

Chewing coca leaves or drinking coca tea causes a mild stimulative effect and does not create any psychoactive or erratic behavior in the consumer.  It does not act in the body like cocaine does.  Because chewing coca is done with an acid (like quinoa ashes) to bring out the alkaloids, there are trace amounts of the cocaine alkaloid present in the bloodstream of the chewer.  It is no where near what you would find in a cocaine or crack user and the effects are very different. The coca leaf is no more cocaine than poppy seed muffins are opium. 


Coca is illegal in the US.  Interestingly enough though, there is one place in the US where coca is legal.  It is a plant in New Jersey and according to wikipedia, it produces cocaine for scientific study.

What's that now?

That's right friends.  Guess what else it produces?  An extract for Coca-Cola (cocaine free, of course) for that good old Coca-Cola flavor. According to the museum, they do it by using leaves that are already once used.  Like making a second batch of tea with the leaves from your first batch.

The museum was really cool and eye opening.  The only part that creeped me out was the plastic model of a man ODing in a bed.


And a tip of the hat to famous cocaine addicts.



They even had Whitney Houston up there.  They are quick to update the exhibits.



This is a great website about the coca battle.

Cacao!

In the guide book I was using, I read about a coca museum.  It sounded very interesting.  Supposedly it had a great exhibit on the coca plant and its importance to the Peruvian culture and the bastardization of the plant as cocaine.  It is supposed to be in San Blas, which was right behind our hotel somewhere(which also meant uphill again).  However when we looked at the map we got a little confused and we went the opposite direction.  Good thing, because instead we found the cacao museum!  QuĂ© Suerte!


Theobroma Cacao: Theobroma coming from the Greek and meaning food of the Gods and Kakaw which was the Maya word for the bean.


Cacao contains Dopamine, Serotonin and Theobromine which are all mood enhancers.  It also houses good amounts of magnesium, a mineral in which most Americans are deficient.


The museum had some great information on where chocolate came from and how it reached Europe becoming a good demanded world wide.


Cacao beans grow in pods on trees.  They are surrounded by a white pulp which is removed and can be eaten.  The beans are then either piled up or put on trays and covered in banana leaves and left to ferment.  After fermentation they are spread out and left to dry in the sun.  After that it is off to exportation!


At the museum you can roast your own beans and make truffles.  You can also buy roasted cacao bean shells to be used for tea. 

I did and it is delicious. 

The way the Maya, Aztec and Inca drank cacao was by grinding the beans with stones.  Once the beans formed a paste, they would mix it with spices and water.  Then they would pour the mixture, back and forth, from one cup to another to create a froth.


Interesting to you perhaps, is the fact that the Inca even had access to cacao.  Cacao is from Mexico; it started its rise to popularity in the Yucatan Peninsula. 

Archeologists may have found proof that cacao existed in Honduras as far back as 1100 AD.  They found pottery with traces of theobromine and caffeine in them and speculate they were vessels used for cacao consumption.

Cacao was integral to Mayan and later Aztec culture.  It was not native to Peru.  Which means that the Inca imported the cacao from the Yucatan or possibly even Honduras.  Can you imagine that trip?  Neither can Google maps.  I tried to see how long it would take to walk from Cuzco to Tegucigalpa and Google couldn't calculate it.  Crazy!

Cacao was valuable enough to both the Maya, Inca and Aztec to be used as currency.  You could buy lots of things with it including prostitutes.

Some interesting differences between the Inca and Maya:
*The Maya never had a central capital nor leader.  Each city ruled itself.  The Inca capital was Cuzco and it had many emperors in succession.  Inca is actually the name for the ruling class of the Quechua, which were the people.
*The Maya had a written language, the Inca did not.
*The Inca Empire lasted only a hundred years ending with the  arrival and subsequent take-over of the Spanish.  The Maya Civilization lasted thousands of years and sort of just slipped out of being after the arrival of the Spanish.  Maya descendants still exist and still speak the original language.